An Unexpected Call

Rabbi Menachem Mendel Lazar, leader of the Jewish community in Krasnodar, Russia, never expected to be drawn into an archeological discovery. But when Dr. Vladimir Kuznetsov, head of the Russian Academy of Sciences’ Institute of Archaeology, reached out, his curiosity was piqued.

Dr. Kuznetsov and his team had been excavating the ruins of Phanagoria, an ancient city on the Black Sea, when they unearthed artifacts that hinted at something unexpected: a Jewish synagogue. Unsure of the significance of their findings, the archeologists turned to Rabbi Lazar for guidance in understanding what they had uncovered.

Although the city of Krasnodar is a three-hour drive from Phanagoria, it is the closest Jewish community. Thus, Rabbi Lazar found himself at the archeological site, stepping back in time. “Seeing evidence of a vibrant Jewish community from over two thousand years ago, whose lives and practices were similar to ours today, was truly awe-inspiring,” he recalls. “It’s something I never thought I would experience.”

Ruins of the ancient synagogue in Phanagoria.
Ruins of the ancient synagogue in Phanagoria.

The findings revealed much more than just a building. They uncovered a glimpse into the lives of ancient Jews, including a menorah, charity boxes, remnants of an ark that likely housed Torah scrolls, and the likely location of a mikvah.

The findings indicate that the Jewish community of Phanagoria was wealthy and dedicated significant funds toward their house of prayer. The building was large, with wide walls and intricate pillars made from imported marble. Greek inscriptions found in the synagogue list years and names, likely of sponsors who contributed to the building’s construction.

History of Phanagoria

Phanagoria was a bustling metropolis in its time, founded in the 6th century BCE by a group of Greek colonizers from Theos seeking refuge in the wake of Persian attacks on Greece.1 They named the city after their leader, Phanagorus.

Strategically located between the Black Sea and the Sea of Azov, it thrived as a trade hub with access to major trade routes. “The city reached the height of its prosperity in the 4th c. [B.C.E],” according to the Princeton Encyclopedia of Classical Sites. “Traces of paved streets, wells, water pipes, and basements of rectangular houses with tiled roofs date from this period.”2

Phanagoria and other Greek colonies on the Black Sea. - George Tsiagalakis
Phanagoria and other Greek colonies on the Black Sea.
George Tsiagalakis

The Jews of Phanagoria

The Jewish presence in Phanagoria dates back millennia, though the exact timeline remains unclear. Some historians believe Jews arrived during the Second Temple era, while others suggest they came even earlier, after the destruction of the First Temple. By the early first century BCE, the Jewish community was well-established and had constructed a grand synagogue that reflected their prosperity and dedication.

The synagogue was not only a place of worship but also a hub for communal life. Archeologists discovered evidence of two main rooms: one for prayer and another for gatherings and celebrations. Surrounding the synagogue, archeologists found ruins of what they believe to be the Jewish quarter of Phanagoria, with homes, gardens, courtyards with clay irrigation barrels and a water supply system, a winery, and even a large oven that may have been used for baking matzah. In addition, archeologists found over 300 tombstones with Jewish symbols.

Fragments of one the menorahs found in the synagogue in Phanagoria.
Fragments of one the menorahs found in the synagogue in Phanagoria.

The synagogue's story ended in the 6th century CE when neighboring invaders destroyed Phanagoria. The synagogue and its surroundings were burned, and the city was plundered. Signs of fire are visible throughout the site. Archeologists also found stone cannonballs near the synagogue building. They suggest that perhaps the residents of the city hid inside the synagogue during the invasion.

The Phanagoria synagogue is one of the oldest ever discovered, and the oldest one in Russia. The discovery of the synagogue ruins filled many gaps for historians and anyone interested in Jewish history of this time period. The first stage of the archeological excavation was recently completed, but much more remains to be discovered as researchers embark on the next stage.

A Legacy to Live Up To

For the modern Jewish community in Krasnodar, the discovery of the Phanagoria synagogue is deeply personal. Rabbi Lazar recently led a group to the site, where they stood among the ruins and imagined the lives of their ancestors.

The visit ignited a sense of pride and continuity among the participants. They saw firsthand that Jewish resilience is not just a story; it is their legacy.

“These were proud Jews who built a beautiful, thriving community. Knowing that we are walking in their footsteps is both inspiring and a call to action,” says Rabbi Lazar.

Krasnodar’s Jewish Revival

The modern Jewish community of Krasnodar is itself a story of resilience. Before the Holocaust, Krasnodar was home to a large Jewish community, with a synagogue located in the center of town. Sadly, most of the community was decimated in the Holocaust, and no organized communal Jewish life existed during the Soviet years. Jewish life in the region seemed to fade into history.

Two decades ago, that began to change. Chabad emissary Rabbi Shneur Segal arrived in Krasnodar and began the process of revival. Jewish families started reconnecting with their heritage and forming a community. Rabbi Segal eventually moved to Baku, where he now serves as Chabad rabbi.

Six years ago, the community invited Rabbi Lazar to become their rabbi, and he and his family have been working hard to help the community flourish. Under his leadership, the synagogue and preschool building have been renovated to accommodate more families, and plans are underway to add a Jewish elementary school.

Programs now serve every age group, from preschoolers to seniors, and hundreds attend Shabbat and holiday celebrations. More Jewish programs and institutions are in the works, including a Jewish community center.

“We are hoping to grow,” says Rabbi Lazar. “There is much more to do. We’ve only started.”

From Ruins to Renewal

The Phanagoria synagogue is more than an archeological marvel. It is a symbol of hope and pride for Jews in Krasnodar and beyond. As they uncover their history, they are also writing a new chapter, one of revival, growth, and a deep connection to the timeless traditions that have sustained the Jewish people for millennia.

The ancient stones of Phanagoria may be silent, but their message is loud and clear: Jewish life endures, and its legacy continues to shine brightly.